Yesterday was All Saints and Magda and I, along with her aunt, uncle and two cousins, visited the grave of her grandparents. I’ll keep my summation of All Saints experience brief, because I hope to write about it in the future and don’t want to spill all my notes.
All Saints day is a national holiday and has religious roots. But the main feature of the day are Poles flocking to cemeteries around the country to visit graves. Flowers and candles are placed. We visited a cemetery in Zgierz (a suburb of Lodz) during the day and another cemetery in Lodz in the evening. During the day there were almost as many people in the cemetery as graves, which easily number in the thousands. It is not necessarily a sombre occasion. As Magda explained it, it’s more of a celebration of the deceaseds’ lives.
During the night the candles light up the cemetery. It’s a beautiful sight and not at all spooky. It really brings home that each grave houses a real person, rather than just a name.
Of course, any holiday has its curious aspects and one that gets an observer, rather than a true participant thinking.
People have different strategies for decorating graves. Magda’s family carefully arranged a few lamps and a few bundles of flowers on the family grave. Most take a similar tact and many times the candles and the flowers on the grave are placed by successions of visitors, be they friends, acquaintances or admirers (certain graves or memorials to war heroes attract hundreds of candles). But other graves have quite obviously been purposely bombarded with as many flowers and candles as possible. Those people, it would seem, take the look-how-many-flowers-my-family-grave-has!!! approach.
Which, come to think about it, isn’t that dissimilar from the huge gothic family tomb of an obviously wealthy industrialist in the centre of the Lodz cemetery. It’s mighty impressive, and there were about 20-30 candles arranged at its base (it’s probably 30-feet-high and looks like a small gothic church). I hope that the candles were lit by family members and not people just impressed with the tomb. That, it would seem, would prove that money can buy prayers, if, like many, those who place a candle at the tomb also say a prayer.
And those annoyed about the commercialism of Christmas should take note that, in post-communist Poland, All Saints isn’t immune either. It’s clearly the make-or-break day for the flower and candle sellers that line the street outside the cemetery. I saw a guy selling blow up balloons in the shape of dalmations and other animals and priests take the opportunity to solicit money for their churches.
Still, all those minor gripes aside. It’s a mighty impressive day and its basic theme – remembering the deceased, seems as good an excuse for a public holiday as any.
Not that the holiday makes everybody happy. It seems it results in a good deal of carnage too.
“Police reported 334 serious road accidents with 32 dead and 421 injured in 48 hours, on what is the annual carnage on Poland’s accompanying one of the most widely observed Roman Catholic holidays, All Souls Day, otherwise known as the day of the Dead.” – Polskie Radio